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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. Yet, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest restaurant achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.